How to save data for archive purposes?
Hi,
I’m not sure if this is the right community for my question, but as my daily driver is Linux, it feels somewhat relevant.
I have a lot of data on my backup drives, and recently added 50GB to my already 300GB of storage (I can already hear the comments about how low/high/boring that is). It's mostly family pictures, videos, and documents since 2004, much of which has already been compressed using self-made bash scripts (so it’s Linux-related ^^).
I have a lot of data that I don’t need regular access to and won’t be changing anymore. I'm looking for a way to archive it securely, separate from my backup but still safe.
My initial thought was to burn it onto DVDs, but that's quite outdated and DVDs don't hold much data. Blu-ray discs can store more, but I'm unsure about their longevity. Is there a better option? I'm looking for something immutable, safe, easy to use, and that will stand the test of time.
I read about data crystals, but they seem to be still in the research phase and not available for consumers. What about using old hard drives? Don’t they need to be powered on every few months/years to maintain the magnetic charges?
What do you think? How do you archive data that won’t change and doesn’t need to be very accessible?
Cheers
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xmanmonk
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Nanook
in reply to xmanmonk • •Dave.
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Blu-Ray USB drive and M-Discs is about the best you can get at present. Keep the drive unplugged when not in use, it'll probably last 10-20 years in storage.
Seeing as there hasn't been much advance past Blu-ray, keep an eye out for something useful to replace it in the future, or at least get another drive when you notice them becoming scarce.
Goun
Unknown parent • • •like this
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Extras
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Might be a dumb idea but hear me out. How about sealing a reputable enterprise or consumer SSD in one of those anti static bags with a desiccant and then sealing that inside a pvc pipe also with desiccant and then burying it below the frost line? You'll just have to dig it up and refresh everything every couple of years, think 3 years at most iirc for consumer ones. Obviously this isn't a replacement for a backup solution just archival so no interaction with it. It'll protect it from the elements, house fires, flooding, temperature fluctuations pretty much everything and its cost effective. Hell you can even surround the hard drive bag in foam then stuff in the pvc pipe for added shock absorption. Make a map afterwards like a damn pirate (its night time so my bad if I sound deranged)
edit I took a nap: in hindsight I should've clarified. I went with an ssd in this idea since its more durable than a mechanical, better price for storage capacity compared to m-disc, and most likely to be compatible with other computers in the future in case you need it for whatever reason. Of course you can use another storage media, like m disc, just know of the drawbacks. Like needing a m-disc burner (~100$), several discs depending on how big of a capacity you need (price varies), pray that there's still a drive that can read m-disc in the future and know that's its gonna be slow when getting your data back regardless. All you would have to do to modify the idea would be getting a disc case that kinda suspends the disc so nothing is touching it's surfaces. Then the same idea: antistatic bag with desiccant, foam or even bubble wrap around it, stuffed in a pipe with desiccant buried below your frost line. People usually skip the "in optimal conditions" part when talking about m-disc but this way we get close to those optimal conditions
ReversalHatchery
in reply to Extras • • •how? sorry but that does not add up to me. for the price of a 2 TB SSD you could by a much larger HDD
both of these use SATA plugs, it should be the same
Extras
in reply to ReversalHatchery • • •ReversalHatchery
in reply to Extras • • •MentalEdge
in reply to Extras • • •This is a very, very bad idea.
SSDs are permanent flash storage, yes, but that doesn't mean you can leave them unpowered for extended periods of time.
Without a refresh, electrons can and do leak out of the charge traps that store the ones and zeroes. Depending on the exact NAND used, the data could start going corrupt within a year or so.
HDDs suffer the same problem, though less so. They can go several years, possibly a decade, but you'd still be risking the data on the drive but letting it sit unpowered for an extended time.
For the "cold storage" approach you should really be using something that's designed to retain data in such conditions, like optical media, or tape drives.
Extras
in reply to MentalEdge • • •Yeah that's why I said it needs to be refreshed and also edited in an option for m-disc in case they want to go the optical route
Extras
Unknown parent • • •DasFaultier
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •This is my day job, so I'd like to weigh in.
First of all, there's a whole community of GLAM institutions involved in what is called Digital Preservation (try googling that specifically). Here in Germany, a lot of them have founded the Nestor Group (www.langzeitarchivierung.de) to further the case and share knowledge. Recently, Nestor had a discussion group on Personal Digital Archiving, addressing just your use case. They have set up a website at meindigitalesarchiv.de/ with the results. Nestor publishes mostly in German, but online translators are a thing, so I think you will be fine.
Some things that I want to address from your original post:
* Keep in mind that file formats, just like hardware and software, become obsolete over time. Think about a migration strategy for your files to a more recent format of your current format falls out of style and isn't as widely supported anymore. I assume your photos are JPGs, which are widely not considered safe for preservation, as they decay with subsequent encoding runs and use lossy compression. A suitable replacement might be PNG, though I wouldn't go ahead and convert my JPGs right away. For born digital photo material, uncompressed TIFF is the preferred format.
* Compression in general is considered a risk, because a damaged bit will potentially impact a larger block of compressed data. Saving a few bytes on your storage isn't worth listing your precious memories.
* Storage media have different retention times. It's true that magnetic tape storage has the best chances for survival, and it's what we use for long term cold storage, but it's prohibitively expensive for home use. Also, it's VERY slow on random access, because tape has to be rewound to the specific location of your file before reading. If you insist on using it, format your tapes using LTFS to eliminate the need for a storage management system like IBM Spectrum Protect. The next best choice of storage media are NAS grade HDDs, which will last you upwards of five years. Using redundancy and a self correcting file system like ZFS (compression & dedup OFF!) will increase your chances of survival. Keep you hands off optical storage media; they tend to decay after a year already according top studies on the subject. Flash storage isn't much greater either, avoid thumb drives at all cost. Quality SSD storage might last you a little longer. If you use ZFS or a comparable file system that provides snapshots, you can use that to implement immutability.
* Kudos for using Linux standard tooling; it will help other people understand your stack of anything happens to you. Digital Preservation is all about removing dependencies on specific formats, technologies and (importantly) people.
* Backup is not Digital Preservation, though I will admit that these two tend get mixed into one another in personal contexts. Backups save the state of a system at a specific point in time, DigiPres tries to preserve only data that isn't specific to a system and tends to change very little. Also, and that is important, DigiPres tries to save context along with the actual payload, so you might want to at least save some metadata along with your photos and store them all in a structure that is made for preservation. I recommend BagIt; there's a lot of existing tooling for creating it, it's self-contained, secured by strong checksums and it's an RFC.
* Keep complexity as low as possible!
* Last of all, good on you for doing SOMETHING. You don't have to be perfect to improve your posture, and you're on the right track, asking the right questions. Keep on going, you're doing great.
Come back at me if you have any further questions.
Home
meinDigitalesArchiv.de8263ksbr
in reply to DasFaultier • • •DasFaultier
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •They are also the inventors of DROID and the maintainers of the widely used PRONOM database of file formats. nationalarchives.gov.uk/PRONOM…
Absolute heroes of Digital Preservation.
PRONOM | Welcome
The National Archivessome_guy
in reply to DasFaultier • • •DasFaultier
in reply to some_guy • • •Yeah, you can always go crazy with (off site) copies. There's a DigiPres software system literally called LOCKSS (Lots Of Copies Keep Stuff Safe).
The German Federal Office for Information Security recommends a distance of at least 200km between (professional) sites that keep georedundant copies of the same data/service, so depending on your upload capacity and your familiarity with encryption (ALWAYS backup your keys!), some cloud storage provider might even be a viable option to create a second site.
Spare drives do absolutely work as well, but remember that, depending on the distance, data there will get more or less outdated and you might not remember to refresh the hardware in a timely manner.
A safe deposit box is something that I hadn't considered for my personal preservation needs yet, but sounds like a good idea as well.
Whatever you use, also remember to read back data from all copies regularly and recalculate checksums for fixity checks to make sure your data doesn't get corrupted over time. Physical objects (like books) decay slowly over time, digital objects break more spontaneously and often catastrophically.
Max-P
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •I would use maybe a Raspberry Pi or old laptop with two drives (preferably different brands/age, HDD or SSD doesn't really matter) in it using a checksumming filesystem like btrfs or ZFS so that you can do regular scrubs to verify data integrity.
Then, from that device, pull the data from your main system as needed (that way, the main system has no way of breaking into the backup device so won't be affected by ransomware), and once it's done, shut it off or even unplug it completely and store it securely, preferably in a metal box to avoid any magnetic fields from interfering with the drives. Plug it in and boot it up every now and then to perform a scrub to validate that the data is all still intact and repair the data as necessary and resilver a drive if one of them fails.
The unfortunate reality is most storage mediums will eventually fade out, so the best way to deal with that is an active system that can check data integrity and correct the files, and rewrite all the data once in a while to make sure the data is fresh and strong.
If you're really serious about that data, I would opt for both an HDD and an SSD, and have two of those systems at different locations. That way, if something shakes up the HDD and damages the platter, the SSD is probably fine, and if it's forgotten for a while maybe the SSD's memory cells will have faded but not the HDD. The strength is in the diversity of the mediums. Maybe burn a Blu-Ray as well just in case, it'll fade too but hopefully differently than an SSD or an HDD. The more copies, even partial copies, the more likely you can recover the entirety of the data, and you have the checksums to validate which blocks from which medium is correct. (Fun fact, people have been archiving LaserDiscs and repairing them by ripping the same movie from multiple identical discs, as they're unlikely to fade at exactly the same spots at the same time, so you can merge them all together and cross-reference them and usually get a near perfect rip of it).
ReversalHatchery
in reply to Max-P • • •an important detail here is to add the 2 disks to the filesystem in a way so that the second one does not extend the capacity, but adds parity. on ZFS, this can be done with a mirror vdev (simplest for this case) or a raidz1 vdev.
8263ksbr
in reply to Max-P • • •Thank you for your insights.
NaibofTabr
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Someone else has mentioned M-Disc and I want to second that. The benefit of using a storage format like this is that the actual storage media is designed to last a long time, and it is separate from the drive mechanism. This is a very important feature - the data is safe from mechanical, electrical and electronic failure because the storage is independent of the drive. If your drive dies, you can replace it with no risk to the data. Every serious form of archival data storage is the same - the storage media is separate from the reading device.
An M-Disc drive is required to write data, but any DVD or BD drive can read the data. It should be possible to acquire a replacement DVD drive to recover the data from secondary markets (eBay) for a very long time if necessary, even after they're no longer manufactured.
variety of optical disc designed for long-term archival storage
Contributors to Wikimedia projects (Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.)8263ksbr
in reply to NaibofTabr • • •sin_free_for_00_days
Unknown parent • • •variety of optical disc designed for long-term archival storage
Contributors to Wikimedia projects (Wikimedia Foundation, Inc.)Barx [none/use name]
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •As a start, follow the 3-2-1 rule:
I would add one more thing: invest in a process for verifying that your backups are working. Like a test system that is occasionally restored to from backups.
Let's say what you care about most is photos. You will want to store them locally on a computer somewhere (one copy) and offsite somewhere (second copy). So all you need to do is figure out one more local or offsite location for your third copy. Offsite is probably best but is more expensive. I would encrypt the data and then store on the cloud for my main offsite backup. This way your data is private so it doesn't matter that it is stored in someone else's server.
I am personally a fan of Borg backup because you can do incremental backups with a retention policy (like Macs' Time Machine), the archive is deduped, and the archive can be encrypted.
Consider this option:
If disaster strikes and all your local copies are toast, this strategy ensures you don't lose important data. Regular restore testing ensures the remote copy is valid. If you have two cloyd copies, you are protected against one of the providers screwing up and removing data without you knowing and fixing it.
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8263ksbr
in reply to Barx [none/use name] • • •ReversalHatchery
Unknown parent • • •FTFY
ReversalHatchery
in reply to Goun • • •sin_free_for_00_days
Unknown parent • • •Mountain_Mike_420
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •8263ksbr
in reply to Mountain_Mike_420 • • •nezach
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •8263ksbr
in reply to nezach • • •Dave.
Unknown parent • • •rutrum
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •like this
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8263ksbr
in reply to rutrum • • •wuphysics87
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Andromxda 🇺🇦🇵🇸🇹🇼
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Desktop Thunderbolt LTO-9 Tape Drive - mLogic
mLogicDigitalDilemma
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •I used to write to DVD's, but the failure rate was astronomical - like 50% after 5 years, some with physical separation of the silvering. Plus today they're so relatively small they're not worth using.
I've gone through many iterations and currently my home setup is this:
Having the hdd's in the safe means that total failure/ransomware takes, at most, a month's worth. I can survive that. The safe is also fireproof and in another building to the server.
This sort of thing doesn't need to be high capacity HDDs either - USB drives and micro-SD cards are very capable now. If you're limited on physical space and don't mind slower write times (which when automating is generally ok), the microSd's and clear labelling is just as good. You're not going to kill them through excessive writes for decades.
I also have a bunch of other stuff that is not critical - media files, music. None of that is unique and can be replaced. All of that is backed to a secondary "live" directory on the same pc - mostly in case of my incompetence in deleting something I actually wanted. But none of that is essential - I think it's important to be clear about what you "must save" and what is "nice to save"
The clear thing is to sit back and work out a system that is right for you. And it always, ALWAYS should be as automated as you can make it - humans are lazy sods and easily justify not doing stuff. Computers are great and remembering to do repetitive tasks, so use that.
Include checks to ensure the backed up data is both what you expected it to be, and recoverable - so include a calendar reminder to actually /read/ from a backup drive once or twice a year.
aurtzy
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •You might be interested in git-annex (see the Bob use case).
It has file tracking so you can - for example - "ask" a repository at drive A where some file is, and git-annex can tell you it's on drives C and D.
git-annex can also enforce rules like: "always have at least 3 copies of file X, and any drive will do"; "have one copy of every file at the drives in my house, and have another at the drives in my parents' house"; or "if a file is really big, don't store it on certain drives".
git-annex
git-annex.branchable.comnyan
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •Assume anything you can buy has a shelf life and set a yearly reminder on your calendar to copy forward stuff more than five or so years old, if those files are of significant value to you. Or for the documents, print them out—paper has better longevity than any consumer-available electronic storage.
That being said, quality optical discs are probably the best option in terms of price to longevity ratio for the average person right now. Just keep in mind that they are not guaranteed to last forever and do need to be recopied from time to time.
(I have yet to have a DVD fail on me, but I keep them in hard plastic jewel cases in climate-controlled conditions, and I've probably just been lucky.)
bloodfart
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •There isn’t anything that meets your criteria.
Optical suffers from separation, hard drives break down, ssds lose their charge, tape is fantastic but has a high cost of entry.
There’s a lot of replies here, but if I were you I’d get last generation or two’s lto machine from some surplus auction and use that.
People hate being told to use magnetic tape, but it’s very reliable, long lived, pretty cost effective once you have a machine and surprisingly repairable.
What few replies are talking about is the storage conditions. If your archive can be relatively small and disconnected then you can easily meet some easy requirements for long term storage like temperature and humidity stability with a cardboard box, styrofoam cut to shape and desiccant packs (remember to rotate these!). An antifungal/antimicrobial agent on some level would be good too.
zephiriz
in reply to 8263ksbr • • •I am using duplicati.com/ and backblaze.com/ ( use their b2 cloud storage its variable and 6$ a month for 1TB or less depending on how much you use) run a schedule beckup every night for my photos. It's compressed and encrypted. I save a config file to my google so say if my house and server burn down. I just pull my config from google then redownload duplicati and boom pull my back up down. The whole set up backs up incremental so once you do the first back up its only changes that are uploaded. I love the whole set up.
Edit: You can also just pull files you need not the whole backup.
Duplicati
duplicati.com